Last weekend I walked into France 44 Cheese Shop and was cheerily greeted by the manager, Song, who said, “Are you here for Kunik?” Am I that predictable? Yes, I did, though I exercised some restraint and only bought a half-wheel. After all, this blog is about exploring all kinds of cheeses, not just our favorites. So I scanned the case and found some sweet rounds of Cremont from Vermont Butter & Cheese and asked Song to ring it up along with the Kunik.
I got over my triple-cream prejudice last year when I first tried the double-cream Green Hill, so I knew that it was possible for Cremont to live up to my high creaminess standards. But like Kunik, Cremont also a blend of goat’s and cow’s milk, so it was ripe for comparisons. I’m pleased to report that Cremont distinguished itself with its palpable but not overwhelming goatiness. Whereas Kunik is more like the “butter bomb” that It’s Not You, It’s Brie’s Kirstin Jackson describes in a recent Los Angeles Times article, Cremont offers a firmer interior that doesn’t ooze or pool after sitting on the counter for a while. Rather, it holds its shape with each cut and then crumbles across the tongue in a tumble of goaty flavor and springtime freshness. I alternated my tastes of Kunik and Cremont and grew to appreciate what each cheese had to offer – a mouthful of Kunik when I wanted that rush of buttery decadence and a wedge of Cremont to sharpen my senses.
Bubbles are the ultimate Cremont pairing, so you might find it on our list of bubbly-worthy cheeses come year-end. I would try it with the brut rosé champagne I just bought – but I finished my Cremont before I had a chance to pop the cork, so I guess a second button of Cremont is in my near future. Don’t worry, Kunik – you’re still (one of) my favorite(s), but like all moms, I always have room to love another child cheese.