If the cheese equivalent to Lay’s potato chips existed, it would be Bonne Bouche. It’s impossible to have just one taste – or one serving. The label on the box says one button serves four. Yeah, I don’t think so. It was hard enough to stop at half the 4-oz. round. I don’t think sharing with three other people is ever going to happen.
We’ve sung the praises of other Vermont Butter & Cheese creations before, and if it’s getting tiresome, well, tough! You can’t fault a cheesemaker like Allison Hooper for consistently turning out such top-notch cheeses. Like recent discovery Laurier, Bonne Bouche is an aged goat’s-milk cheese, but its calling card is its overcoat of vegetable ash that adds a delightful zippiness to each bite. While the interior of the cheese retains the freshness and texture of a young chevre, the edges just underneath the bloomy rind liquify as the cheese comes to room temperature. The combination of the bulging ooze, the slightly chalky paste and the zesty rind send Bonne Bouche over the edge. Seriously, challenge yourself to stick to a 1-oz. serving. I bet it’s never been done.
While the label suggests a glass of riesling and a few hunks of dark chocolate as a pairing, I’m more apt to celebrate this cheese’s superiority with a flute of bubbly – and the chocolate, of course, along with some dried mango or apricots. If you plan on joining me, bring your own button. I’m not sharing.