The cheeses of Vulto Creamery have been on our radar for a while now, but like so many good things, they weren’t readily available outside of New York. I had the pleasure of meeting cheesemaker Jos Vulto briefly over the summer, but his Miranda and Ouleout only recently made their debut on my cheeseboard. Coincidentally, Jill was in New York last week and made her first acquaintance with Miranda at Murray’s Cheese Bar.
Miranda, a small washed-rind with a distinctive corseted shape, is a sweet and buttery raw milk cheese washed in absinthe.
She takes her name from the cheesemaker’s late wife, and you can taste the love with which this cheese is crafted. While my more recent wheel was fairly young with a white bloom, more aged versions develop more red on the rind and become more supple. It’s not particularly briny as washed rinds go, but just a bit tart. Vulto, once part of a Brooklyn urban cheesemakers gang (as described by Matt Spiegler for Modern Farmer), now has a cheese making facility in upstate New York, and the absinthe in which Miranda is washed also hails from nearby Delaware Phoenix Distillery. Between Jill and myself, we’ve caught three phases of Miranda and each was delicious.
Ouleout is a larger, more supple washed-rind, with a salty, briny, toasty flavor. This particular wheel was just perfectly oozy ripe, and I had to fight off the curd kids to save some for Jill. (Yes, I’m not afraid to toss a stinky washed-rind — double-wrapped — in my carry-on. Fortunately for my fellow travelers, it was a direct flight to Minneapolis.)
You can pair these with absinthe or a roasty Scotch ale or the like — unless you’re pregnant (sorry, Jill), in which case we suggest some nice briny pickles.
Vulto cheeses are available in NY cheese shops and also sold directly at the McGolrick Park farmers market in Brooklyn. They are also newly available in DC (Society Fair and Sona, as of this writing), and local readers can taste them at Glen’s Garden Market in Dupont tomorrow night, Friday 10/24, 5:30-7:30pm.
Disclosure: I received two free samples for review purposes, but we also purchased two wheels ourselves and plan to purchase many more. As always, all opinions are our own.