I consider myself to be an equal-opportunity cheese-shop patron, especially with so many good shops in the Twin Cities, but I have a soft spot for the Cheese Shop at France 44. Not only does the manager Song know me by name, she always steers me toward the cheeses that I often don’t see at the other shops in town. While you can buy plenty of European cheeses at France 44, the shop does a great job of stocking American artisanal cheeses, and I often get cheeses that Colleen can’t find in D.C. As you can imagine, this makes her extremely jealous and strengthens my argument for why she should visit me more often.
Anyway, two of my more recent finds from France 44 are delicious Vermont cheeses — Twig Farm’s Washed-Rind Wheel and Blue Ledge Farm’s Riley’s Coat. Both are raw-milk cheeses, one all goat (Riley’s Coat) and the other a mix of cow’s and goat’s milk (Washed-Rind). But beyond their state of origin and milk, they don’t have very much in common, which gives you a great excuse to buy both for your refrigerator.
Aged for about 80 days, the Washed-Rind Wheel (pictured above) has a thicker paste that coats the tongue and a slightly smoky, musty flavor. It’s milder than Red Hawk but still retains a hint of funk. I tasted more cow than goat, and the mix of milks does vary, according to the Twig Farm website. Sometimes the Washed-Rind is made with all goat’s milk, but mine definitely had a blend. Our friend Tia Keenan pairs her Washed-Rind with mustard-miso pickles and Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand or Oregon Pinot Blanc.
Riley’s Coat featured a drier paste than the Washed-Rind, and its slightly crumbly texture really distinguished it from its Vermont counterpart. It develops a natural rind while aging for four months, and its flavor is lighter and saltier and has hints of hay. I enjoyed the slight tingle it left on my tongue as I cut off small shards. Riley’s Coat would also be an excellent cheese for grating – substitute for Parmigiano or Pecorino in your classic Italian dishes. As for an accompanying wine, cheesemonger extraordinaire Anne Saxelby recommends a rosé .
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